March 26, 2022

The Skincare Enthusiast’s Complete Guide to Handmade Soap

Share this


Table of Contents

So you’re looking to buy or make some soap? The Skincare Enthusiast’s Complete Guide To Handmade Soap is full of information and understanding. It’ll help beginner soap makers learn how to make handmade soaps with confidence as well as soap buyers who want better understand skincare products they buy without wondering if it’s worth investing in this natural beauty staple.

In each chapter of this guide, we’ll address all the things about handmade soap, or true soap, and commercial soap in general. Furthermore, you’ll be able to make a more informed decision about buying handmade soap and soap products. 

What is handmade soap?

If you have been feeling the pressure to use handmade soap, then let’s get a few of the facts straight. 

Handmade soap is a bar soap made by emulsifying fatty acids and alkali. Once these ingredients are mixed or emulsified they go through a chemical change.  This process is called saponification. The end product is neutral and mild enough to use on your skin. 

It’s soap…true soap!

For centuries this was the only way that soap was made. Some of the first soaps discovered go back to 2800 BC in Iraq.  Animal fats (fatty acids) and wood ash (alkali) were used to create cleaning products. 

Then came the industrial revolution in 1760.

The tedious ways handmade products were made took a backseat to machine and milling processes. Society could now mass produce just about anything. 

Despite the loss of artisan quality products, there were benefits.  More products were in the hands of more people for less money. 

This was a much-needed progression! But the natural qualities in some products, such as soap, were lost.  They were replaced with chemical synthetics.

Furthermore, synthetic ingredients were made at scale. They mimicked the naturally occurring characteristics of handmade soap, or true soap. 

Today the soaps that crowd the grocery store shelves are commercial bar soaps made with milling machines. Consequently, they are not handmade soaps or true soap. More so, they are filled with those synthetic ingredients. 

With this in mind, anything other than milled commercial soaps is classified as handmade soap, artisan soap, or handcrafted soap.

What is natural soap?

There’s a bit of an ongoing conflict among handmade soap makers. 

Because the definition of soap is made by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration), they have declined to define “natural soap”.

This is something the FDA feels they can not clarify. Consequently, it has created a small divide among artisan soap makers.

Most handcrafted soap makers believe every ingredient in the bar of soap should come from nature (i.e fragrance, colors, exfoliants).  If not, then it is not a natural product. 

Conversely, other handmade soap makers are perfectly comfortable claiming their soaps are natural.  Even if they have used synthetic fragrances and colorants. 

As long as the cleansing properties of the soap naturally occurred during the creation process…without the help of synthetic cleaning agents…they believe it to be natural soap. 

And the FDA specifically defines true soap solely based on the ingredients that contribute to the cleansing abilities. Surfactants to be more exact.

This excludes fragrance and color. By this right, it could potentially be considered natural soap. However, it should more accurately be called “true soap”.

The FDA has yet to step in and settle this squabble (probably impossible).  The satisfaction will have to lay with the consumer. 

Either way, handcrafted soap scented with either nature’s oils or synthetic oils is far and above a finer cleansing experience.

For natural product purists, you can look for the Natural Ingredient Resource Center (NIRC) truth in labeling seal on your bath products.


Who is the NIRC?

"We are an independent, nonprofit research and education organization dedicated to providing accurate and reliable information for consumers, healthcare practitioners, researchers, educators, industry, and the media."

-https://naturalingredient.org


Handmade soap makers who want to make the pledge to educate themselves on and then use all-natural ingredients, per the NIRC standards, in their products, can apply to have this seal put on their labels.   If that is important to you...look for this seal!

What is organic bath soap?

Organic products are highly popular and marketable. Notably, organic bath soap is no exception. But wait! Let’s be perfectly clear on the definition of organic. According to the Oxford Dictionary, there are two meanings of organic.
 
or·gan·ic.   /ôrˈɡanik/
 
1.  relating to or derived from living matter.” organic soils”
 
2.  (of food or farming methods) produced or involving production without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or other artificial agents.” organic farming”
 
Oxford Languages Dictionary
 
In general, both of these definitions refer to anything that is not artificial. 

By and large regulating the word organic in food, farming, bath products, and just about anything else where it matters….

…has been difficult at best. However, there are criteria that have to be met.

Who regulates organic labels in a handmade soap?

With natural products, there are three main organizations that oversee the organic label regulations. 

The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture), the FDA (Food and Drug Administration), and the NOP (National Organic Program).

Therefore, all three of these regulate everything from labeling, farming, and quality standards.

In order to use the organic standard label on your product, it needs to be certified through these organizations. 

Yes, even cosmetics and soaps.

Generally, there are many well-intentioned handmade soap makers out there that want to provide a safe and natural product. 

Therein lies the rub.

What do “organic” and “natural” ingredients mean in the mind of the soap maker and consumer?

Perhaps, claiming organic means a soap made from all-natural ingredients. Under those circumstances, everything would be plant-based. That would align with the first definition of organic.

However, if you are looking for a handmade soap where all the ingredients were farmed organically without chemicals as per USDA and NOP regulations….

…well that would take some proving. 

Consequently, maybe the organic bath soap manufacturer can prove it!

The promise of having an organic product means “safe” for most organic seekers across the board. Therefore,  if safety is what you want, then be clear in your mind what these words mean to you.  As long as they mean the same thing to the organic bath soap maker you buy from, you can be confident.

Chapter 1: Soap vs detergent: What are you using on your skin?

The soap vs detergent debate doesn’t seem relevant to skincare products. After all, everyone uses soap to clean their skin, not laundry powder or house cleaners.

Isn’t that what you think of when you think of detergent?

Not so fast! It’s actually important to know this.

Soap and detergent are both cleaning agents, but there are some key differences between the two.

First, soap, or handmade soap” true soap”, is made from natural ingredients like animal fat or vegetable oil, while detergent is a synthetic compound.

Secondly, synthetic compounds are made with chemicals with the intention of mimicking natural compounds. Particularly, the compound which makes soap: surfactants.

True soap is also biodegradable, while detergent is not.

However, there is one important thing to understand about soap vs detergent. It’s this; most bar soaps you find at the grocery are considered….detergent.

Conversely, handmade soaps you find at boutiques, farmer’s markets, and smaller displays in the grocery store, are considered true soap.

Even though commercial soap ingredients are regulated and considered detergent by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration), they can be labeled soap.

They are considered a “soap product” and are deemed safe for the skin.

Overall, both products will lather and clean your skin! But it is YOUR skin and you want to make a choice that aligns with your values.

For the purpose of this guide, when comparing soap vs detergent, we are comparing commercial bar soap to handmade bar soap.

Handmade soap is eco-friendly soap!

If you are eco-friendly aware, then natural or handmade eco-friendly soaps appeal to you the most.

When it comes to soap vs. detergent: handmade soap is biodegradable. Handmade soap is made of natural ingredients that can break down in the environment, while detergents are made of synthetic chemicals that do not biodegrade.

To clarify, the base ingredients that make up handmade soap are biodegradable. The ingredients that make soap a cleaning agent.

Detergents, or commercial bar soaps, are chemical-based. Detergent is not biodegradable, which means that it can accumulate in the environment over time.

That can wreak all kinds of havoc that we won’t get into here. The bottom line is that if you are a purist, then all-natural handmade soap is your best bet.

True soap is full of glycerin which is a skin-loving byproduct.

Soap glycerin is a natural byproduct of cold process or handmade soap making.

What is glycerin in soap?

Firstly, it is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is made from the saponification of fats and oils.

Secondly, it is also a humectant, meaning that it helps to retain moisture in the skin. The top layer of the skin to be exact. The layer that can get dry and itchy.

Soap glycerin is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products because it is hygroscopic, meaning that it attracts moisture. Soap glycerin is also a good emollient, meaning that it helps to soften and smooth the skin.

Glycerin is pretty much…awesome.

So much so, that it can be used in a variety of self-care products.

It is often used in:

  • moisturizers
  • lip balms
  • pharmaceuticals
  • anti-wrinkle creams
  • toothpaste

Just to name a very few.

Soap glycerin is also a good solvent, meaning that it can dissolve other substances. This makes it useful in soapmaking because it helps to dissolve the soap ingredients and produce a smooth soap bar!

If you are keeping the score on soap vs detergent…I think true soap has more points.

Detergent commercial bar soaps remove the glycerin!

Detergent bar soaps are made on a large scale.

At a certain time during the soap-making process, salt is added to the soap to separate the solids from the liquids.

The solids are the soap while the liquids are glycerin. Beautiful… smooth… glycerin.

For the reasons we named above, glycerin is a valuable commodity!

The extracted glycerin is sold to other companies who use it in their products. The glycerin may also be kept to be added back into or create other soap products.

It seems counterintuitive to do that since glycerin was already in the soap! However, it allows some control over the final product.

Pure glycerin soaps are also produced for ultra-sensitive skin soap users. You’ve probably seen clear bars of soap wrapped in cellophane at the store.

Those are glycerin bar soap.

Consequently, regular commercial bars of soap largely are void of glycerin due to the practice of extracting it.

Under those circumstances, the final product has a greater chance of leaving your skin feeling tight and dry after you shower.

Another plus for true soap in soap vs detergent!

The basics you need to know in choosing soap vs detergent.

In conclusion, there are some basic things to consider in soap vs detergent.

Let’s run it down.

  • Soap and detergent are both cleaning agents.
  • Handmade soap is made from natural ingredients like animal fat or vegetable oil.
  • Detergent is a synthetic compound.
  • True soap is also biodegradable, while detergent is not.
  • Soap also contains glycerin, which is a skin-loving byproduct, while detergent often removes this beneficial component.
  • Soap potentially can leave your skin softer and smoother.
  • Commercial bar soaps (detergent) can leave the skin feeling dry and tight.

Ultimately, handmade soap may be the better choice for those looking for an environmentally friendly and skin-friendly cleaning agent.

Hopefully, you have a pretty firm grasp on the difference between commercial detergent bar soaps and handmade true soap.

As we go through this guide further we will discuss even more distinguishing features between the two, however, these are the most important factors.

Chapter 2: The three types of handmade soap

In the artisan world of soap making, there are three different types of soap.

  • cold process soap
  • melt and pour soap
  • hot process soap

Soap makers don’t generally label their soap with their soap-making method. However, they will use a word like “handmade”, “handcrafted”, or “artisan”. Each one of these terms has been used on all three types of soap.

Equally important, cold process and hot process soaps are the only two types of handmade soap that are true soap as discussed in the last chapter.

Melt and pour soaps, although made with artistry and by hand, are made from commercial soap bases with glycerin added back in. They can be potential detergent bar soaps.

Hopefully, the label will say whether a “detergent-free” soap base was used.

Although melt and pour is neither good nor bad, it is important for the consumer to know. Each type of soap has its own advantages and drawbacks.

What is cold process soap?

Handmade true soaps are beautiful, smell amazing, and feel soooo good on the skin. But, what is cold process soap?

Cold process soap IS handmade true soap! It is a technical term for the actual soap-making process.

But don’t be fooled.

There is nothing “cold” about the chemical process of making soap. The chemical reaction between all the key ingredients creates quite a lot of heat actually. Consequently, soap-making demands respect and caution.

However, they call it a cold process because there is no extra heat required from outside sources for this chemical reaction to occur. The ingredients produce all the heat needed on their own once they are mixed together.

Once the lye and oils mix, the chemistry magic starts to happen. As a result, the emulsified mixture heats to a high temperature and then is poured into a mold to cool.

Sometimes the soap can get so hot after being poured into the mold it can create a volcano effect!

As you can see, the term cold process soap can seem like a misnomer.

Luckily, once the soap has completely cooled and cured, the end product is a safe glycerin filled skin-loving treat.

What is hot process soap?

Hot process soap produces the same true soap that cold process soap makes. It has all the same glycerin and mild true soap qualities.

Soap makers prefer this method of soap because they can take it to market faster!

Here’s why.

Hot process soap starts with all the same ingredients as the cold process. This type of soap is more difficult to make than the other two. Moreover, once the ingredients are emulsified, extra heat sources are added. They really drive up the temperature of the mixture.

Because of the extra heat, the mixture will start to saponify, which is a fancy word for turning into soap.

In cold process soap, this chemical reaction is left to mozy along on its own with its own natural heat process. It takes days to saponify due to the lowers temps. With hot process soap, the heat source spikes the temp and saponifies it in hours!

Supposedly, this allows the soap to harden and unmold much quicker and have less cure time on the rack. If this is the case, then the soap bars are available for sale sooner.

The drawback to this soap is purely aesthetic. They tend to have glycerin rivers and look rustic and chunky.

Neither of those matters at all as far as the quality of soap goes. 

What is melt and pour soap?

Melt and pour soap is made by melting a pre-made soap base and adding color and fragrance while it is viscous.

A hallmark characteristic of most melt and pour soap is the transparent appearance. Although, melt and pour soaps can have a solid color.

Melt and pour soaps are popular because of the many artistic liberties soap makers can take.

First, the soap bases have already been commercially made which eliminates the need to work with chemicals and extra equipment.

Second, because there is no chemical process the scents, colors, and additives maintain their original form. This makes the outcome for these soaps very predictable. What you see is what you get!

Soap makers can make very aesthetic bars of soap without the worry of unruly chemical changes running amuck and destroying the outcome.

One drawback to melt and pour soaps is that although they are glycerin rich, they lather poorly.

What type of soap is the best?

Cold process, hot process, and melt and pour soaps are all considered handmade soap. All three of these types of soaps are often more expensive than commercially-made soap, but they are more beneficial for the skin.

That’s the hard truth.

Due to the true soap characteristics of cold process and hot process soap, they are also less likely to cause irritation or skin problems.

Melt and pour soap, although less of a true soap, can still have benefits for the skin. This is due to the many natural additives that can be added to the soap that will not get destroyed during a chemical change.

One of the many benefits of these three types of soap is they are very customizable!

There are so many nurturing oils and scents to choose from. You can buy or have a bar of soap created that’s perfect for your needs.

All of these types of soap also have a long shelf life which means you can keep them around for a while.

So how do you choose the best type of soap for you?

To sum it up, it all depends on what you’re looking for.

If you want a soap that’s beautiful and less expensive, melt and pour soap is a good option. If you’re looking for a more natural option, go with the cold process or hot process soap. Just ask your soap maker which method they use.

Your skin will thank you if you use any one of them!

Chapter 3: What is in true soap? The Role of Each Ingredient in Handmade Soap

What is in soap or true soap? True soap is made with four minimal ingredients.

Soap ingredients can vary depending on the recipe. Even so, there are some general ingredients that are used in all bars of true soap. These include oils, water, lye, and fragrances.

Each of these ingredients has a specific purpose in soapmaking.

Handmade soap makers pride themselves on coming up with the best combination of ingredients. They want soap that will lather well, feel good on the skin, and clean properly.

Considering just the base ingredients of what is in soap….the possibilities are endless!

The purpose of oil in soap: fatty acids

In chapter one we talked about true soap is made of fatty acids and alkali.

Oil, which is the fatty acid, is the main ingredient in soap. It is what makes the soap moisturizing and cleansing. The fatty acids in the oil make this happen. Fatty acids have a long hydrocarbon chain with a carboxylic acid group at one end. When soap is made, the triglycerides in oil are broken down into fatty acids and glycerin.

With the right combination of oils as the base of the soap, soap makers create well-balanced bars of soap. Different oils have different properties, so soapmakers choose their oils based on what they want their soap to do.

For example, olive oil is a very conditioning oil that is good for dry skin, while coconut oil is a cleansing oil that creates exploding lather. However, too much coconut oil can dry skin out.

Therefore, finding the right combination of these oils creates a balance. The variety of oils is many. Here is a list of the most popular.

  • olive oil
  • coconut oil
  • palm oil
  • avocado oil
  • rice bran oil
  • almond oil
  • castor oil
  • beef tallow
  • lard

Uniquely, each one of these oils creates a soap characteristic that is good for cleaning or conditioning the skin.

Why is water in soap?

Water is used in soap to help dissolve the sodium hydroxide which is the alkali.

Sodium hydroxide is a solid that comes in pellets, flakes, or granules. Once the sodium and water are combined, it turns into lye which is a caustic solution.

When it comes to soaping, distilled water is often considered the best option as it is free from impurities that can cause issues with your soap. These impurities mostly interfere with the aesthetics of the soap. Typically orange spots and soda ash. Although both of those can occur with distilled water as well they are attributed to other ingredients.

Despite the blemishes, neither of these makes the soap unsafe to use.

Once a bar of soap is made it is cut and left to “cure” or rather, dry out. During this time of soap hardening and completing the saponification change, water slowly evaporates from the bar soap.

The longer the cure, the harder the soap. Ideally, soapers will try to make soap with the least amount of water possible to speed up some of these processes. Finding the right amount of water in soap to work within a recipe takes some experience.

It is imperative that the right amount of water is used with the oils so that when the soap has saponified (turned into soap), there is not too much lye leftover making a harsh bar of soap.

Again…balance is the key!

What is lye soap? The need for alkali.

There is a fair amount of misinformation about lye soap and how to make soap without lye. However, lye is a necessary ingredient in soapmaking because it makes the soap saponify, or turn into true soap!

All soap is lye soap!

Even liquid body washes have a caustic alkali called potassium hydroxide. There is no avoiding a true soap or soap product that does not have a caustic alkali.

It’s imperative to the process!

As much as we all shrink at the idea of using these substances on our skin, the soap-making process, if done right, neutralizes lye making it skin safe.

This happens because lye is mixed with the oil and turns into something completely different!

However, handmade soap makers must develop the skill of using the right amount of oils in soap. Each molecule of lye needs to match with a molecule of oil and bind for that change to happen.

Too much lye can make a caustic soap. This is because lye alone is a very caustic substance. It is important to make sure that all of the lye has been paired up with oil in the soapmaking transformation, as leftover lye can cause skin irritation. It is always better to have more oil floating-free than lye in a soap recipe.

As long as the saponification process has occurred, lye was used to make the soap. That includes melt-and-pour soap bases. In this case, that process was done before it arrives at the soapmaker’s shop.

In the event of too much lye being in a bar of soap, it is more correct to call it a lye heavy soap instead of lye soap.

Soap fragrance or natural unscented

Soap has a fragrance to give it a pleasant smell. Isn’t that what helps us feel clean?

On the contrary, people with sensitive skin opt for all-natural unscented soap. It’s not worth the risk of contact dermatitis. Fragrances can do that to the skin. Unscented soap is easily done by completely leaving a fragrance oil out of the soap recipe.

Handcrafted soap makers use a wide variety of fragrances. Some are natural fragrance oils, called essential oils. Some are not and have synthetic compounds in them.

If a soap maker uses essential oils to scent the soap, which are oils derived from plant sources, they are biodegradable. These are considered natural fragrance oils.

Equally important, if they use a synthetic fragrance made from chemicals, it is not biodegradable. Synthetic fragrances are largely made from carrier bases, alcohols, aldehydes, esters, and other synthetic compounds. They are made to strongly mimic scents found in nature.

Synthetic fragrances in soap are more cost-effective, available, and have a wider variety. If you want to know what is in your handmade bar of soap, check the label.

An ethical handmade soap maker will clearly label their soap one of two ways.

Soap ingredients: olive oil, water, sodium hydroxide, essential oils, and mica.

Soap ingredients: olive oil, water, sodium hydroxide, fragrance oils, and mica.

It is not required by law for the ingredients of synthetic fragrances to be listed or reported. This is because the fragrance is considered a “proprietary” product.

If this makes you a little uncomfy then a naturally scented or unscented soap is ideal.

Coloring soap with mica or natural dyes.

Aside from the most common ingredients, there are some additional ingredients that make handmade soap fun to use!

One of the most unique qualities of a handmade bar of soap is the striking designs and bright colors. Conversely, an all-natural bar of soap with its earthy muted appearance is appealing to others.

First, if a bar of soap is brightly colored it has been done using either micas or skin-safe lab colorants.

Second, mica is a mineral that is found in abundance in the Earth’s crust. It has a variety of uses, including as an insulator, a lubricant, and as a component of various cosmetics. Soap makers like to state that mica is a natural colorant.

However, real or natural mica is not used in soap making. It runs the risk of having too many impurities.

Laboratory-created mica is a man-made material with many of the same properties as natural mica. It is often used in applications where natural mica would be too expensive, difficult to obtain, or not safe to use.

Laboratory-created mica is made by mining and processing kaolin clay, which is then combined with other materials to create a mica-like substance. The end product is identical to real mica from the earth.

Mica can be found in a variety of colors, depending on the other materials used in its creation. It is a popular choice for use in soap and cosmetics, as it can provide a natural-looking glow and bright colors. Mica is also non-toxic and relatively heat-resistant, making it a good choice for use in products that come into contact with skin or hair.

Natural soap colorants

Natural soap colorants come from plant materials. However, it is important to note that just because it came from a plant does not mean it will be safe! There are many toxic plants.

Here are some of the many safe plants used to color soap:

  • beetroot powder
  • turmeric
  • annatto seed
  • chlorophyll
  • cinnamon
  • licorice root
  • paprika
  • rose hips
  • seaweed

Why are food products put into soap?

Since that fateful day when Cleopatra soaked in a bath of milk, soapmakers everywhere have worked every angle possible to get milk into their soaps, lotions, and cosmetics.

Moreover, everything from fruit and vegetable purees, ground oats, honey, and beeswax are added to handmade soap as well.

What, if anything, do these extra ingredients do for your skin?

There is no simple answer.

First, the soap ingredients that we’ve discussed thus far are the ONLY ingredients needed to make true soap that cleans the skin. And that is all soap is designed to do. Remove dirt and oil from the skin. Handmade true soap does it in a mild and gentle way.

Secondly, many of the claims that soapmakers make about the food additives in their soap are mostly….not true. At least they are hard to prove.

Although the skin is permeable and many things can enter our bloodstream through the skin, it actually takes a great amount of effort and engineering for that to happen.

No one skin layer is the same and no one soap recipe is the same. Therefore, skin permeability would not be the same.

Also, the fact that soap is a wash-off product makes it highly unlikely that milk, cucumber puree, or anything else will have nutritional or skin nurturing benefits.

However, what these food add-ins can do is change the way the soap FEELS as you are using it. They can also change the way the soap lathers, or looks. And things like oatmeal make great exfoliants for the skin because of the rough texture they add to soap.

Goat’s milk soap for the skin.

Goats milk soap is wildly popular! There are many claims of healed eczema and psoriasis if you use it.

The hard truth is, it’s all anecdotal. And more than likely it is the true soap ingredients and natural glycerin in that goat’s milk soap that nurtures the skin more than the milk itself. Without the synthetic ingredients of commercial soap, many handmade soaps can be beneficial.

With or without milk.

Consequently, the base oils used to make the soap are more influential to our skin.

But just because that is true does not mean that you can’t have fun trying bath products that have nurturing food additives in them! That is the beauty of handmade products.

Soap makers love experimenting and making soap fun. It’s always interesting to see what these food ingredients do to our soap properties.

Remember, this is in regards to a wash-off product like soap. When it comes to leave-on lotions and cosmetics, there is a larger chance that some of the nutrients in goat’s milk could stay on long enough to benefit the skin.

Better yet….take that milk bath!

What soap ingredients matter to you?

It is important to know what ingredients are in your soap, especially if you have sensitive skin. It’s also important to know as a consumer if you are being marketed to with ingredients and claims that are just that.

  • Synthetic fragrances and colorants may be less expensive and more available, but they may also be more irritating to your skin.
  • Natural alternatives like essential oils and plant-based colorants can provide the same benefits without the risk of irritation.
  • Food in your soap may be interesting and earthy, but not as beneficial as you would like to believe.

So, next time you are looking to buy soap, be sure to check the ingredients label! Buy soap that makes you happy.

Chapter 4: What makes soap lather and why we love it so darn much!

Getting clean is the name of the game! It also makes soap lather feel so important. The lather is the cleaning bubbles we know and love.

We all know what happens when you don’t have lathery bubbles to wash with. You don’t feel very clean afterward!

The same goes for your clothes- without proper soap lather, what’s the point?

Soap is what’s known as a surfactant, which means it has the ability to decrease the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid.

Consequently, this is what causes bubbles to form when soap is used with water.

What is not to love about the lovely bubbles you get from cleansing with a bar of handmade soap?

Furthermore, it feels nice and gives us the confidence we are clean and fresh after washing, without any residue left behind. The thicker and creamier the better!

So what makes soap lather?

Well, there is a little bit of a science-y explanation needed here.  

When it comes to what makes soap lather there are two basic ingredients that really start this process off — sodium hydroxide (lye) or potassium hydroxide(caustic potash).

(If you’re a handmade soap maker, then you know what we’re talking about here. If not, we’ll keep the science geekery to a minimum.)

A closer look at what is inside of most soaps will reveal many of them also have a base of sodium palmate or sodium cocoate (from palm oil and coconut).  

These ingredients are considered naturally derived surfactants. They can also be synthetically created for detergents or commercial soaps.

If you’ve ever taken a chemistry course, then you know what surfactants do — they help water and oil stick.

Natural surfactants are needed for what makes soap lather and also what makes your skin feel so incredibly clean and smooth!

The importance of surfactants and lather.

Naturally occurring or synthetic surfactants create lather.

Surfactants are molecules that have what is known as hydrophobic and hydrophilic ends.  This basically means that one end of the surfactant likes water (philic) and one does not (phobic). 

The first thing we do with a bar of soap is to rub it on something. Our wet skin, a loofa, or washcloth. This rubbing creates friction which creates little air bubbles.

Next, the water-hating end of the surfactant (phobic) tries to get away from the yucky wet. It will attach to these air bubbles which it likes more.

As thousands of these hydrophobic ends attach to the air bubble, it creates a film around tiny parts of the air. Now the air bubbles are soap bubbles!

Essentially, the air is trapped inside this “casing” of soap molecules. Soap lather is just a large concentration of these filmy air bubbles made from soap and water.

How does soap clean with lather?

With all of the lather being worked up off a bar of soap, how does soap clean?

When surfactants are added to a mixture of water, they tend to aggregate together into structures that look like spheres or disks.  These aggregates are often known as micelles.

The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules will stick inside the center of these spheres where they pick up dirt and oil. The hydrophilic ends will extend outwards towards attaching to water.

If surfactants are present in high enough concentrations, their surfactant micelles will cluster together and the adsorbed materials (dirt for instance) can be easily washed away with simple rinsing!

We all love exploding soap lather, but is it necessary?

Soap is a cleaning agent that removes dirt, oil, and other impurities from the skin. Soap lather is not necessary to clean the skin, but it helps remove even more dirt and oil from the skin.

As crazy as that sounds, it’s true.

While lather is often associated with cleanliness and is considered to be a desirable feature of soap, low to no lather products can still lift dirt.

The psychology of lather is complex, and it is thought to play a role in the perceived efficacy of soap. Some people find the sensation of lather to be pleasing, while others find it to be irritating.

There are many ways to cleanse the skin without using soap. Some people prefer to use a gentle cleanser, such as a facial wash or liquid hand soap.

Others prefer to use a natural cleanser, such as olive oil or honey. There are also many different types of soap-free cleansers available, such as bars and liquids.

Again, soap lather is not necessary to clean the skin, but it is more psychologically pleasing to have it than not!

And it feels a lot nicer than honey.

Just sayin’.

Bubble lovers! Get more lather out of your soap.

For those of you who just can’t get enough exploding joyful bubbles out of your bar soap…there are some ways to get more.

One way to get more lather from your soap is to use a loofah or washcloth. The rough surface of these items helps to create more suds.

Remember…friction creates lather.

Secondly, you can also try using a little bit more soap than usual.

And finally, make sure to rub the soap vigorously against your skin. This will help create more bubbles. The longer you rub the creamier the soap lather gets.

This makes for excellent shaving cream!

There is one more factor when it comes to going the distance with lather. That is the water that comes out of your shower head.

Hard water soap: The best soap to use for maximum lather.

Soap lathers quicker and more generously in soft water. If you don’t have a water softener attached to your plumbing then you are dealing with hard water.

In hard water, the minerals in the water can react with the soap to form a scum or film on the surface of the water. This can inhibit the formation of lather and make it difficult to achieve a good lather.

Some soaps are specifically designed for use in hard water. These soaps contain ingredients that help to prevent the formation of scum and film, and they are often marketed as “hard water soap.”

Even without the label of hard water soap, many of the familiar commercial soap brands you find at the grocery store qualify.

In essence, these soaps have surfactants that are synthetic, also called syndets. These soaps are designed to foam and lather well in hard water conditions. Basically, you need a detergent soap with hard water.

Handmade soap makes wonderful lather, but the natural surfactants lather better in soft water.

If you have hard water, and you love lather, it is important to use a soap that is designed for use in hard water. This will help to ensure that you get the best lather possible.

There you have it! Some ways to get more lather out of your soap.

Follow these tips and you’ll be lathering up in no time!

Chapter 5: The truth about choosing the right ph of soap for your skin

There is a lot of marketing buzz about the importance of pH of soap and face cleansers. Basically, people are very interested in how acidic or neutral their skincare products are.

That makes sense! Our skin is a defense against the contaminates around us and we need to protect it.

Coincidently, you should know that your skin is actually an acidic environment. The acid level of your skin is important to the health of your skin.

Therefore, wanting to maintain the proper acid balance in your skin is wise.

After all, when your acid mantle, which is just an acidic film on the surface of our skin, is out of whack, all kinds of things can go wrong.

As a result, you would want to remedy that as soon as possible!

Conscientious consumers and serious skincare lovers pay close attention to pH labels so they can keep their skin in “balance”.

This balance is called homeostasis. Meaning…everything is as it should be. Perfect balance.

Skincare products like soap, lotions, and cleaners that are used every day can contribute to the disruption of this balance. The pH of soap is of particular interest to most.

This brings us to handmade soap vs low ph liquid cleansers.

But don’t panic!

Before you purge your bathroom of all things bad for your skin, let’s go over a little body chemistry and dermatology 101.

What is pH balance?

The truth is our whole body has a pH balance to maintain.

The potential of hydrogen (pH) is a measure of how acidic or alkaline something is. It ranges from 0-14, with 0 being the most acidic, 14 being the most alkaline, and 7 being neutral.

what is ph balance-scale

The body’s pH balance is important for overall health. A normal blood pH level is 7.35 to 7.45.

Coincidently, water is at 7. It is completely neutral!

When the body’s pH becomes too acidic or alkaline, it can lead to a number of symptoms of unbalanced pH levels. For example, excess acidity can cause:

  • headaches
  • fatigue
  • joint pain
  • problems sleeping
  • an increase in infection risk
  • and many more symptoms

Our whole body can be out of homeostasis! Ask someone who is chronically ill and they can tell you exactly what that feels like.

The ideal pH of skin is slightly acidic, at or around 4.5-5.5.

This number helps to maintain the skin’s natural barrier, the acid mantle, which protects against unwanted bacteria and other environmental threats. It also helps maintain the good bacteria that live on our skin which also maintains balance.

What is ph balance when it comes to just our skin? Some would argue that is everything in regards to skin health.

However, there are some nuances.

Symptoms of unbalanced pH levels in the skin.

Maybe you are experiencing the symptoms of unbalanced pH levels in your skin and just didn’t understand what is happening.

Skincare products are not the only contributing factor to skin health!

In fact, most people don’t know that the pH of their skin can be affected by many factors, including diet, stress, pollution, and certain medications.

Consequently, if you’re experiencing unbalanced skin pH levels, you may notice symptoms such as:

  • redness
  • dryness
  • excessive oiliness
  • acne breakouts
  • contact dermatitis

For example, redness, dryness, and breakouts are symptoms of unbalanced ph levels of skin that is too alkaline. On the other hand, if your skin’s pH is too acidic, it can cause inflammation, excessive oiliness, and damage the skin’s natural barrier.

How does skin pH get restored?

Skin’s natural pH balance is important for keeping your skin healthy and looking its best.  It’s important to try to restore balance if it’s off.

Diet and environment can help but can be tricky to manage.

The attention put on the pH of soap and other skincare products help people feel like they are making a difference immediately. And sometimes it does!

But the truth is that your body is intelligent and self-repairing. If you are genetically lucky to have naturally healthy skin (skin that is homeostasis), then your skin will balance itself!

No matter which wash-off product you choose to use.

Above all, leave on products like lotions and creams should be regarded more closely, but again. If you have a healthy lifestyle and healthy skin…your body does its job.

What is the best soap for pH balance?

Ahhh! The question that everybody wants to know.

The pH of handmade or true soap is alkaline. Most bars of true soap sit around 9-10 on the pH scale. (Liquid low pH soaps are between 5.5-6)

Certainly that is a hard truth bomb because logic would say that is bad. Skincare product marketing claims that pH of your soaps should be the same as your skin.

Low pH skin cleansers

Before you jump off a building or defend the honor of your favorite handmade soap brand, there is one thing you need to understand.

All the commercially made low ph cleansers are made with synthetic surfactants or syndets.

In other words, they are detergents. And although they can be engineered to be the pH level of the skin, the nature of the synthetic surfactants can be very disruptive to skin health.

Once again, marketing for the win! They have everyone convinced.

That is not to say that dermatologists do not agree with low pH cleansers. Quite often they do recommend them. And rightfully so if someone is having major symptoms of unbalanced skin ph.

In that case…listen to your dermatologist! Equally important, this article is not intended to ever undermine or go against sound medical advice from your primary skin care provider.

However, the vast majority of people with healthy skin can use a handmade or true bar of soap with confidence. They are not damaging their acid mantle! Even with long term use.

In fact, the natural glycerin and surfactants in handmade soap are far superior cleansers when it comes to the health of your skin.

Above all, the overall ingredients of skincare products are more important factors than the pH level.

While there have been studies that show an increase in skin pH after using true soap, it is small. And often returns to homeostasis within 15 minutes of use!

The pH balance of skin: to use or not to use handmade soap.

When it comes to soap, what do you look for on the label? Do you know what the pH of soap is and how it contributes to your skin type? Does it really matter?

All good questions!

In conclusion, anyone with a significant imbalance in their skin pH that has symptoms should be conscientious of their skincare products. Ideally, this would be under the care and direction of a licensed dermatologist.

Coupled with the understanding that most people have healthy skin that can balance itself after a spike in pH. It’s safe to say that handmade soap is a safe and acceptable skincare product.

Most importantly, there are many ways you can control the pH of your skin.  It is unlikely that a low pH skin cleanser would have the most influence. Especially since those cleansers are used with water which alone has been proven to raise the skin’s pH!

When given the choice between a synthetic soap product and handmade soap with naturally occurring surfactants, there is science to suggest that it is the ingredient make-up of the soap that will have a greater impact on skin health, and not the pH level.

Chapter 6: How long does handmade soap last? Tips for extending the life of your handmade soap

When you buy handmade soap, you are paying for a product that is made with high-quality ingredients and craftsmanship. Consequently, the price will reflect that. Because of this, you likely want your soap to last as long as possible.

One of the most frequently asked questions soap makers get is: how long will this bar of soap last?

All things considered….we don’t know.

The truth is, that is a question that can only be answered by the person using the soap!

Truly, if you are a serial lather-er such as myself… any bar of soap tends to disappear sooner than later.

Commercial detergent bar soaps are characteristically harder than some handcrafted bars of soap.

With that in mind, handmade soap makers do have a few tricks up their sleeves.

Stearic acid, for instance, is a naturally occurring substance in palm and coconut oils that produce a pretty hard bar of soap. Coincidently, it also creates a velvety lather. An artisan soap maker will either use stearic acid as an add-in or use oils with naturally high amounts of it.

A hard bar of handmade soap is achievable!

Regardless, there are no guarantees on how long a handmade bar of soap will last.

Consider these questions:

  • What is the size of the bar of soap?
  • How many people are using one bar of soap?
  • How many times do you lather up?
  • Do you shower frequently?
  • Is your water soft or hard?
  • How do you store your bar of soap?
  • Do your kids leave the bar of soap floating in the bathwater?

Here are some tips for how to extend the life of your handmade soap.

Tips on how to make handmade soap last longer.

  1. Store your soap in a cool, dry place: Handmade soap lasts longer when it is stored in a cool, dry place! This could be a cabinet or drawer in your bathroom.
  2. Use your handmade soap only when needed: Using your soap semi-regularly will help it last longer. If you only use your soap once a week, it will last longer than if you use it every day. I mean obviously…but if handmade soap is not exactly in your budget for everyday use, you don’t have to go completely without it! Just alternate it with other soap products.
  3. Keep your soap dry: Be sure to drain your soap dish well, and avoid storing your soap in a humid environment. Use a soap dish that drains well. Also, keep your soap behind the showerhead where water can not hit it when it is not in use. A hanging bath caddy with a soap holder is ideal!
  4. Never, and I mean never leave your handmade soap floating in bathwater! That is guaranteed to shorten its life span. Let the kids know.
  5. Lather once and put it down! No judging on this one if you want to lather and repeat. There’s just something about those soothing soft bubbles.

By and large, the storage habits of handmade soap before, during, and after use are the key determining factors of its life span.

Assuredly, by following these tips, you can help ensure that your handmade soap lasts as long as possible.

Store-bought soap may be cheaper in the short term, but handmade soap is a better investment in the long run.

Plus, who doesn’t love the luxurious feeling of using a beautifully made bar of soap?

Conclusion: The benefits of using handmade soap.

It’s important to know the benefits of using handmade soap so that you can make an informed decision about whether or not it’s right for you.

Hopefully, this complete guide has answered all your questions and even some you did not have. The world of handmade soap is exciting!

Quite frankly, choosing to buy handmade soap can be more than splurging on a luxury product. Its benefits are many. It’s a great way to improve your skin health and enjoy a more luxurious bathing experience.

While it may cost slightly more than store-bought soap, the benefits of using handmade soap are well worth the splurge.

  1. Handcrafted soap is often made with natural ingredients, which can be beneficial for your skin.
  2. Artisan soap often contains fewer chemicals than mass-produced soaps, which can also be good for your skin.
  3. Handmade soap generally has a nicer scent than mass-produced soap, making it a more pleasant experience to use.
  4. Buying handmade soap supports small businesses and helps to keep money in your local community.
  5. Handmade soap is often made using sustainable practices, which can help reduce your environmental impact.
  6. Overall, using handmade soap is a great way to improve your skin health and enjoy a more luxurious bathing experience.

Use this guide to make an informed decision about the next bar of handmade soap you buy. But most importantly, have fun and LOVE the soap you use.

You might also like

>